There is nothing quite as evocative as the aroma of freshly roasted pork or grilled sausages on the street. On moving to Guildford in 2005 after living abroad for ten years, I was walking to the High Street, past the George Abbot Memorial, and little by little the aroma of roasted pork and a barbecue intensified: this was my introduction to Guildford’s monthly Farmers’ Market.

On arrival at the market it was apparent that Hunts Hill Farm was responsible for the wonderful aroma. In addition to selling rolls with freshly roasted pork and award winning sausages, it also sells prepared cuts of home reared meat. I have been buying the farm’s poultry, goat, lamb, veal and sausages at markets ever since (full list on the farm website). The bulk of its business is at these markets and Hunts Hill Farm is a regular at eight; barbecues, however, are only staged at some of these.

We are blessed in Surrey to have a few really good, local meat producers with smallholdings who sell directly to the public via small shops or farmers’ markets and Hunts Hill Farm is one. Based in Normandy, the farm is owned by Georgina and John Emerson, not as you would think from a family of farmers, but an ex interior designer and garage owner. Theirs is a story which could have been modelled on the seventies’ TV series ‘The Good Life’ and I imagine from meeting them with as much fun and comedy on the way.

Having decided to make a huge lifestyle change and a move to the country, Georgina and John bought a farm that had run into trouble and needed an injection of energy to get it back on its feet. First off John undertook an agricultural course at Merrist Wood to get himself on the right track. Georgina made their temporary mobile home comfortable while they planned their new farmhouse on the site. The small farm shop was built and this also houses the butchery and sausage production unit. Slowly they built up their livestock. In addition to saddleback pigs, goats, Aberdeen Angus cattle and poultry, Georgina and John also have laying hens, geese and ducks. All free range and with lots of space: Hunts Hill is the home of happy animals.

Like many smallholders, the best way to make a living is by selling via popular farmers’ markets where the couple enjoy meeting their customers and have built up a strong following. They take their meat to market, ready cut and vacuum packed with a good shelf life. Sadly, the meat doesn’t look so great packed this way, but its quality in eating: that’s the real moniker here. I have never had a duff joint or sausage from Hunts Hill. In fact the leg of goat I had from them was a dinner party centerpiece. It was only recently that I realised Hunts Hill also had a small farm shop and bed and breakfast on site too.

I made a much overdue visit to the farm in late April. On a private road, it’s signposted from the junction, but caution here as the shop is only open from Wednesday to Saturday. At the end of the road sits the farm and its vestige reminded me of the description in ‘The Darling Buds of May’. Rustic and ramshackle, but in a friendly welcoming way and, like all places I visit, with its own distinct personality.

The farm shop is small, but with enough ingredients for shoppers to put a meal together. The butcher’s display is the main attraction, of course, and meat is sold fresh and frozen. Choose from small joints ready to go or order larger joints in advance to avoid disappointment. Meat is all reared on the farm (apart from the rose veal which is provided from a farm in Horsell Common). Animals travel a short distance to an abattoir in Farnborough before returning to the farm where butcher Peter expertly prepares the meat for sale.

To complement the meat, a small range of vegetables, sauces, chutneys and, of course, freshly laid goose, duck and hen eggs are on offer too. The ducks eggs looked so inviting, large, white and freshly laid, I bought half a dozen (see recipe). They came with a large white feather too!

Strawberries in the shop were from Tuesley Farm which grows berries on its 459 acre site in Godalming. The farm is famed for its fruit and Georgina ripped open a pack of strawberries to sample. New season, they smell and taste sensational and it’s good to note that Hunts Hill also stocks Meadow Cottage Farm raw untreated cream (an absolute delight) and ice cream too. Perfect with strawberries.

Spring asparagus and courgette flower Scarpaccia

When I was at Hunts Hill Farm Shop, I bought half a dozen newly laid duck eggs. With a box of courgette flowers at home, I did some research and found a delicious sounding Italian Scarpaccia: a vegetable traybake covered in cheesy batter and baked with fresh thyme and chilli. I adapted the recipe, using asparagus instead of courgettes, and included the courgette flowers. This bake is simple and effective for something so easy to prepare. When just baked, it's quite delicate, but firms as it cools. Perfect for lunch with salad, for picnics or buffets, or served in small squares with drinks.

Ingredients
300g fine speared asparagus, snap off the tender spears*
1 red onion, very finely sliced
Four cloves garlic, crushed
One dessertspoon extra virgin olive oil
Two tablespoons fresh thyme, finely chopped
One generous sprinkle of chilli flakes
10-12 courgette (male) flowers, remove petals for use and discard stems (optional due to short season and availability)
200g self raising, gluten free flour (I used Doves Farm)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Six duck eggs
200ml milk
100g crumbled Feta cheese
50g grated Parmesan or Pecorino cheese
Some extra virgin olive oil, for drizzling

Method
• Prepare a baking tin 22cm x 32cm, lined with silicone non-stick baking paper. Traditionally this recipe is made in a larger, flat tray (Swiss Roll size), but I decided to go a bit deeper, frittata style.
• Pre-heat the oven to 180°C/160°C fan/gas mark 4.
• Scatter the asparagus on the baking sheet. Mix the sliced onion and garlic in a spoon of oil before scattering on top. Arrange in an even but not-too-organised layer and sprinkle with chilli flakes and courgette flower petals.
• Combine flour and seasoning in a mixing bowl.
• In another large mixing bowl, whisk up the eggs and milk. Whisk the dry ingredients into the eggs and stir in the Parmesan cheese.
• Pour the batter evenly over the asparagus all the way to the edges of the pan.
• Crumble with Feta and drizzle with a little oil. Bake in the oven for 20-30 minutes until golden and puffed.
• Delicious served warm or cold.

* Hold the asparagus and bend it: it will break naturally where the woody part starts. If using very fine asparagus, this will not be necessary.

Shirlee Posner, www.eatsurrey.co.uk

The Hunts Hill free-range pork is also the star of the farm’s award winning sausages. There are currently over thirty recipes in the repertoire, which are made on a rolling basis. Expect at least eight of these on offer at any one time. Some of the prizewinners include pork, apple and maple syrup, apple and black pudding, beef and Guinness and beef chilli and chocolate. I decided on a pack of hot Spanish with smoked paprika which I enjoyed with my family that evening. They were succulent, spicy and soft textured, perfect.

Georgina kindly took me into the farmhouse which is also home to the two rooms let out for a bed and breakfast business. Here is a glimmer into the previous world of interior design that the lady of the house inhabited. Rich colours and large comfortable sofas, it’s a really fabulous space. The bedrooms for guests are off the main reception area and have their own private bathrooms. Comfortable and well furnished, they look over the rear garden with rolling hills as a backdrop.

As I was leaving, we went to see the pigs in a field next to the house. There were two pregnant sows and a very satisfied looking boar. Taking my leave, a farm helper handed Georgina a goose egg that had just been laid. I got a chance to hold this warm, perfectly formed giant egg: it was a touching moment for a city girl like me.

Hunts Hill Farm and Shop is a classic example of a small producer bringing high quality produce to the market and selling directly to the public. If, like me, you are interested in the provenance of the food you eat, it doesn’t get much better than this.

Shirlee Posner

essence info

Hunts Hill Farm, Shop and Bed & Breakfast, Normandy Common Lane, Normandy, Guildford GU3 2AP
Telephone: 01483 811840
Websites: www.huntshillfarm.com and www.eatsurrey.co.uk

Shirlee Posner is a food writer and blogger at www.eatsurrey.co.uk and provides social media management, web copywriting and food photography.