Newly opened in January 2016, Waters Edge restaurant is located just outside Woking in Surrey at a new wetlands centre at Heather Farm, Horsell Common. News spread fast of its peaceful atmosphere, dog friendly policy and wonderful eaterie. The area around the wetland has decking and paths, making it easy for buggies and mobility scooters, unless there has been a lot of rain when it becomes muddy.

I enjoyed my first visit so much that I have been back three times in the last three weeks, mainly because the setting and food are fabulous, but also because I have been trying to interview head chef of the Waters Edge, Aneke Spacie. Busy managing a young family, a new eaterie opening at The Lightbox Gallery in Woking and her current restaurant, we had to resort to a telephone conversation in the end, which helped fill in the gaps.

Like many, I am used to visiting gorgeous places here and abroad only to find the restaurants serve mediocre food, fizzy drinks and deep-fries, frankly anything unfortunate enough to make its way into the kitchens. Not here though – the food ethos, menu and hospitality at the Waters Edge is as close to my idea of a perfect venue as possible. Organic, locally sourced, thoughtfully cooked and presented, it’s delightful, refreshing and sustainable food too.

Not being able to interview Aneke actually didn’t turn out to be so bad as her reputation was easy to track on the internet. Before children came along, this highly skilled chef built up an enviable CV working for McClaren, The Ivy, British Airways, Harrods and Sotheby’s. Running her own catering company in Surrey, Aneke built on this experience and a successful pop up at The Lightbox last year sealed a contract to take over catering there too. Due to open this August, the eaterie has unfortunately been delayed until the autumn. This, I suspect, is due in part to the popularity of Waters Edge, which with its al fresco seating overlooking water, is at its peak season during summer months.

Waters Edge is Aneke Spacie’s first solo restaurant and within just a few months she has accumulated a hardcore following of diners who love her menu, cooking style and dedication to healthy, sustainable eating. Here the mantra is to buy food with thought, cook with care, use less wheat and meat, buy local, serve just enough and create minimal waste. Food is presented in such an attractive way too and whilst it’s not fine dining London style, there is the sense that a meal is going to be really good for you (teatime cakes not included here).

On my first visit, my daughter came with me and at this point it was just to get a sense of what the venue was all about. It was just after 3pm and although the kitchen had just closed for lunchtime service, we were still able to order. Choosing a spicy Welsh rarebit with a free-range hen’s egg and then a couple of mugs of tea, we took a seat. When the food arrived it was on a wooden board which looks great, but wasn’t practical as the runny egg without some control would have rolled right over the edge. I happen to think plates are the obvious choice, as not only do they retain heat, they also control the food. However, in subsequent visits I have made it is the only criticism I could possibly muster, in addition to the fact that as seating is limited inside, Waters Edge could, in poor weather, outgrow its space fast.

A week after deciding to write about Waters Edge, I took a fellow writer, Richard, for lunch. He was over from Taipei where we had worked together and it was the perfect venue. We had a balmy English summer’s day to share and it was a far cry from our last lunch together eating stinky fermented tofu in Shenkeng, a suburb of Taipei.

This time our menu was based on good nutrition, provenance, budget and balance and we loved it.

I had panfried wild mushrooms on toast (£7.50) with Parmesan, truffle dressing and wild rocket, while Richard had the house burger (£10.50) with cheddar (Wookey Hole) smoked bacon, salad and tomato relish with home fries. Aneke brought the food to our table on this occasion and shared some useful information with us.

Some of the mushrooms had, she told us, come from Heather Farm, which the restaurant tops up with those from a local vegetable supplier; the truffles were from the estate (Surrey, surprisingly, is not bad for truffle hunters) and the meat from a local farm. Both our dishes were satisfying, delicious and had an understated feel-good factor. The setting, of course, overlooking the wetland adds to an overall sense of wellbeing. Nearby diners had selected roasted pork belly and a huge bowl of soup, which looked exceptional too. Next time.

Blueberry and cashew bars

My daughter has friends who are vegan and they absolutely love this dessert. I don’t bother to tell guests normally that it is vegan, berry packed and full of nutrients. It’s so delicious it doesn’t need a cover up at all! The real star here is coconut oil, which melts like a dream, is solid at room temperature, and allows all sorts of culinary wizardry. In particular, it mimics a creamy texture normally associated with high fat dairy products which gives a cheesecake-like mouth-feel: perfect. Of course, coconut oil is not a low fat product in itself, but being plant and not animal based means it has a healthier saturated fat profile.

Please note a food processor is needed to make this recipe.

For the base
125g nuts (not roasted), pecans and walnuts work well (or use a mixture)
45g desiccated coconut
85g raw cocoa nibs (optional)
185g dried fruit (I used a blend of cranberries, sultanas, cherries and goji berries)
Three tablespoons melted coconut oil

For the topping
225g raw cashew nuts
200g dried blueberries
125ml almond milk
One teaspoon Manuka honey or Agave nectar to taste
Four tablespoons melted coconut oil
Edible primrose petals or other flowers to garnish

Method
• The day before making the bars, put the cashew nuts and dried blueberries into a bowl and pour over the almond milk. Cover and leave overnight, mixing a couple of times.
• Next day, first make the base. Place all the ingredients, apart from the oil, in a food processor. Process until finely chopped.
• Add the coconut oil, then pulse and tip the mixture into an oblong, loose-based pan (approximately 10 x 36 cm). Press down evenly with the back of a metal spoon until tightly packed and chill whilst making the topping.
• Use the food processor again for the topping. Place all the ingredients into the bowl and blitz until the mixture is smooth. It may look like a lot and be a little wet, but it will set.
• Pour the mixture onto the base and chill for at least two to three hours or overnight before serving. Cut into bars, but not too thick, these are quite rich!

Variations
• For the base: use the recipe as a formula here. Maintain the ratio of nuts to fruit with the coconut oil. Stick to the amounts by always using 125g nuts to 185g fruit.
• For the topping: keep the ingredients to the same ratio, but experiment with different fruit. Blend dried and fresh fruit, but be careful not to make the mixture too wet. Cashews are the best nuts to use for the filling as they blend down easily to a creamy texture.

To finish, we ordered drinks and cake. Waters Edge has a substantial range of homemade and bought-in sweet treats (from a local bakery) from chocolate-dipped flapjacks to large cutting cakes. Choose from red velvet, chocolate with salted caramel, carrot and coffee. Gluten free options include orange and polenta cake too. For children there is also an option to buy and decorate a gingerbread person with a plate of sprinkles and writing icing. Coffee here is barista-style and tea comes in large mugs with a teabag which can be recycled in the glass jar provided. A great idea.

As Richard and I sat and chatted, I wondered about the history of the wetland and decided a little research would not go amiss. Part of Horsell Common, the land was originally attached to Windsor Great Park, also known as the King’s Waste. It was passed over in time to local ownership where it became part of the estate of the Earl of Onslow. An altruistic man, he allowed the land to be used by locals to graze animals, collect wood to burn and for recreational pursuits. When the Enclosures Act was passed in 1806 the Earl did not allow the land to be divided, so it remained intact. However, eventually, he found the space too hard to maintain and manage and by 1910 a solution was brokered. This saw the formation of the Horsell Common Preservation Society set up to manage the estate. By 1966, the Society was able to buy the land it had been entrusted with for less than £2,000. Additions to the original estate now see that at 830 acres the Preservation Society is the largest landowner in the borough. Heather Farm and Wetlands Centre is one of five sites managed by the estate. Find out more about the Preservation Society, their other sites and the fantastic work they do here at www.horsellcommon.org.uk.

Waters Edge is open from 8.30am to 8pm every day. The kitchen shuts at 3pm, but cakes and sweet treats are available until 5pm. The kitchen reopens to serve tapas, charcuterie, cheeseboards, Prosecco and spritz cocktails until 8pm. The full menu can be viewed on the website below.

Waters Edge is child friendly with buckets of crayons, a Lego corner and teepees to set up outside. For dogs, water is provided with towels for those that end up in the water! Dogs on leads are allowed inside, but must be kept on a tight leash by owners. As this is a wetland, to encourage wildlife, there are strict rules for dog walking on the site. Please check the website before visiting if bringing a dog.

Shirlee Posner

essence info

Waters Edge Heather Farm, Horsell Common GU21 4XY
Telephone: 01483 726556
Website: www.surreywatersedge.com

Website: www.eatsurrey.co