LEISURE BREAKS
Surrey’s Premier Lifestyle Magazine

Delightful Dublin, capital of the ‘emerald isle’

Located at the mouth of the River Liffey, which flows into the Irish Sea and Dublin Bay, Dublin is an enchanting city where locals charm visitors with their infectious sense of humour and zest for life. Rebecca Underwood was instantly captivated.

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Once a Viking settlement, Dublin became Ireland’s major city after the Norman invasion. Prior to the Act of Union in 1800 Dublin was the British Empire’s second major city and in 1922, following the division of Ireland, Dublin emerged as the capital.

Its history is all in The National Museum of Ireland on Kildare Street which has a wonderful collection of Viking swords, dating back to 800 AD. Exhibits include finds from Irish settlements of the ninth and tenth centuries, which provide an insight into the harsh realities of Irish rural life. The fascinating exhibition ‘Medieval Ireland from 1150 to 1550’ documents life in Ireland in the age of cathedrals, monasteries and castles and the Treasury exhibition presents remarkable examples of Celtic and Medieval art, including the Ardagh Chalice, made up of two hundred and fifty components and the notable Tara Brooch. Both pieces date back to the eighth century AD and reflect the extraordinary talents of early medieval Irish metalworkers.

Today, Dublin attracts visitors keen to experience the warmth of Irish hospitality. Temple Bar is a cosmopolitan area offering an extensive choice of galleries, restaurants, cafés, bars and shops. A leisurely stroll along the pedestrianised cobble-stoned streets is a real treat and a tipple or two in any one of the many pubs will quench the most persistent thirst. There is no shortage of charismatic characters, and whilst sipping on an Irish coffee we were serenaded with a rendition of ‘I’ll take you home again Kathleen’ and another local risked breaking a limb with his idea of “what real Irish dancing should be and not what that young whippersnapper Flatley has exported!”

For culture vultures and history buffs, a trip to Dublin Castle will not disappoint. In fact, the city of Dublin gets its name from the Black Pool – ‘Dubh Linn’ – which was once part of the castle’s garden. Dublin Castle stands on the ridge of a strategic site at the junction of the River Liffey and its tributary the Poddle, where, it is said, the original fortification may have been an early Gaelic Ring Fort. Part of a Viking fortress which once stood on the site remains and is on view to visitors at the ‘Undercroft’. The ‘south range’ houses the elegant state apartments that were the residential quarters of the Viceregal Court. Today they are used as a venue for Ireland’s presidencies of the European community, presidential inaugurations and state functions.

To learn about Ireland’s favourite stout, visit the Guinness Store House, Dublin’s most popular attraction, with over a million visitors every year. The ‘black stuff’ dates back to 1759, when Arthur Guinness signed a 9,000-year lease for an annual rent of £45 for the disused brewery at St James’s Gate. The world renowned Irish stout is made of water, barley, hops and yeast and visitors are welcome to ‘pull the perfect pint’ following precise instructions from a Guinness representative. The glass must be held at a 45 degree angle and the pourer must wait for an exact period of 119.5 seconds before topping off the froth. Be sure to visit the Gravity Bar and perhaps partake in a refill whilst admiring the panoramic view of the city in between sips.
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Clear the head with a brisk walk along O’Connell Street, named after the nineteenth century nationalist Daniel O’Connell, leader of the movement for Catholic emancipation. This will lead to the O’Connell Bridge spanning the River Liffey and the promenade known as Batchelor’s Walk. From here embark on a 45 minute cruise on board the Dublin Discovered boat and from calm waters admire scenes such as the charming Ha’penny Bridge, built in 1816, and known as the Ha’penny due to the half-penny fee once payable for crossing it.

Stop off for a coffee break at the Sweetest Thing, also on Bachelor’s Walk, and only a short hop and skip from the Ha’penny Bridge. Visitors are sure to be tempted by the elaborate display of fancy cup cakes and there’s an opportunity to people watch the multitudes crossing the bridge.

Dublin Zoo, opened in 1831, is one of the city’s most popular attractions. A registered charity, focused on raising awareness of threatened species, it generates funds for conservation. Located in Phoenix Park, the zoo is home to over 400 animals including a pride of Asian lions, Asian elephants, giraffe, rhino, gorillas, chimpanzees and orang-utans.

Daily feeding times are popular as is the zoo’s famous Meerkat Restaurant. Diners may become the centre of attention of inquisitive meerkats as they peer through a large glass.
There are of course a lot of hotels in Dublin, but for those seeking the highest standards of comfort and service, the luxurious Merrion Hotel, birthplace of the first Duke of Wellington, is ideal. The property, which consists of four inter connected Georgian town houses, is located in the city centre on Upper Merrion Street.

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“Today, Dublin attracts visitors keen to experience the warmth of Irish hospitality. Temple Bar is a cosmopolitan area offering an extensive choice of galleries, restaurants, cafés, bars and shops.”

A stylishly furnished superior garden wing room offers a view of the landscaped eighteenth century style gardens and features ultra comfortable beds swathed in crisp Egyptian linens. This elegant and grand property reflects Dublin’s Georgian heritage perfectly and offers a relaxing retreat. Guests are welcome in the beautiful drawing rooms adorned with Belgian tapestries, sparkling chandeliers and priceless works of Irish art. There’s an indoor infinity swimming pool, steam room and spa, and for an outstanding dining experience, visit the hotel’s Cellar Restaurant, housed in the original eighteenth century wine vaults, which offers modern Irish cuisine.

A little further afield, Hugo’s restaurant is a short stroll away on Merrion Row. The service is first class and the menu is inspired. Consider sampling the slow braised South Glenn beef, served with white onion, herb mash and a Guinness purée.
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For dedicated shoppers, browse along bustling Grafton Street and then head for the nearby Powerscourt Centre on South William Street which features over 40 shops and restaurants. The charming antique shops, crammed with glittering trinkets will demand attention and there is a selection of art and craft shops, including the Dolls Store Hospital and Museum, housed in a ballroom, where a charming collection of Irish dolls, miniature Irish musical instruments and teddy bears galore are displayed.

For those not wishing to carry bags too far and in need of some pampering, the Westbury Hotel, located on Grafton Street, is just the ticket. This luxurious, independent boutique hotel and member of the Leading Hotels of the World group provides outstanding standards of comfort and service and is owned by an Irish family. For a treat, opt for a luxury suite measuring a generous 603m², which includes a sumptuously furnished separate living area featuring original art works and sculptures. After an arduous day of exploration around the city, soothe those aching muscles and sink into the freestanding classic roll-top bathtub bursting with bubbles.

For a tasty meal, visit the East Side Tavern on Leeson Street. Head upstairs to the main dining room and order the beer battered cod with a pea mousse and chunky chips cooked in goose fat. Select a tipple of whiskey from over 200 varieties and raise a glass high in solidarity to one of Ireland’s favourite sons: James Augustine Aloysius Joyce, who once said: “When I die, Dublin will be written in my heart”.
Images, excluding hotels, provided courtesy of Fáilte Ireland

“Aer Lingus offers a swift check in procedure, comfortable seats and good on board service. Flights depart daily from London Heathrow or Gatwick to Dublin. For more information, visit aerlingus.com.”