HEALTH
Surrey’s Premier Lifestyle Magazine

The seven deadly sins of skincare

Aesthetician Naomi Diamond of The Epsom Skin Clinic advises readers on how to gently care for skin and keep it healthy.
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So we all know what’s good for us and what’s not, such as drinking water instead of tea and coffee, or eating vegetables instead of cake, but skincare can be confusing and misleading. Here are what I call the seven deadly sins involved in skincare and their solutions.

Problem: soap Put it down…quick!
Using soap to cleanse the face on a daily basis can be why some skin conditions are caused. Remember the pH scale from science lessons?
Our skin has a natural acid mantle of pH 5, whereas soap is an alkaline product with a pH of around 10. Using soap on skin strips it of its protective barrier leaving the effects of everyday life, pollution and free radicals to wreak havoc on healthy cells.
Solution: cleanser
Nowadays most cleansers are water-soluble and can be washed off in the same way as soap. They are more balanced and can treat specific concerns. Why not try a vitamin C based cleanser twice a day? It will help brighten skin, but also calm inflammation and has antioxidant protection against free radical damage.

Problem: over exfoliation
For those who like the feel of a perfect polished skin, exfoliating more than twice a week is a no no! Sloughing away dead skin is an important part of a beauty routine as it promotes a healthy glow and stimulates circulation. However, the danger is it stimulates the production of oils that can bond with dead skin cells, creating more congestion and an uneven complexion.
Solution: there are alternatives!
Glycolic Acid is naturally derived from sugar cane and resurfaces the skin without physically scrubbing it like beads. It gently digests dead layers whilst breaking up congestion and also leaves skin smooth and surprisingly soft. When used in a cleanser for a specific skin type the product is mild enough to use at least once a day.

Problem: non-protection
I say it every month! It is vital to protect against premature aging and skin discolouration. As long as it is light outside UVA and UVB can damage skin, even on a cloudy day.
Solution: SPF
Readers may think I’m mad when I recommend an SPF 50 as they can’t begin to imagine that thick, greasy, gloopy product on their faces. There is an alternative; Heliocare is a range that provides lightweight moisturising protection year round.
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Problem: non removal of make up
It is so easy to do. Who wants the hassle at the end of a long day (or night) removing make up? But before putting head to pillow, just think of the dirt and debris that accumulates in make up during the day which is then transferred onto that pillow which will then find its way back to your skin the next night and so the vicious circle begins.
Solution: remove it
Skin deserves to breathe, so let it. Cleanse make up off and replenish vital moisture to ensure skin remains youthful and radiant.

Problem: picking
Picking at spots and imperfections can lead to scarring and pigmentation issues, which take longer to eradicate. Also, if not removed in the correct manner, bacteria can spread deeper into the skin or around the face.
Solution: stop!
Try and avoid picking at spots by using on the spot treatments to help. In clinic a Salicylic acid based peel will help to slow down over production of oil and dry out existing spots, whilst evening out the complexion. Also, for those who do have scarring, microdermabrasion will help to deeply exfoliate and smooth. For an on the spot treatment, Agera Oxy infusion cream is antibacterial and can be used over an entire area or just locally on individual concerns.

Problem: over treating
In a similar way to over exfoliating, over treating is bad for the skin. This can mean cleansing too much, which removes natural oils and can cause dryness or stimulate oil production, or over treating with on the spot treatments which can leave dry crusty marks on the skin. Also, over moisturising can cause skin congestion.
Solution: see a skin specialist
A skin specialist can recommend a routine tailor made for the client. Follow it to achieve healthy, soft beautiful skin. Remember it can take anything between four to eight weeks to really see a difference and the routine can be altered to suit. So, if skin becomes dry or prone to more spots, contact the therapist and adjustments can be made to the skincare regime.

Problem: roughness around the eyes
The eye area is very delicate, so treat the skin with kindness. Pay attention to its condition and try not to rub too hard.
Solution: be gentle
I always recommend eye products. Depending on my client’s skin type and main concerns, I will carefully select a cream, serum or gel to smooth, soften and brighten the eye area. The amount of product and application is important. Only use the size of a grain of rice between both eyes and apply gently with the ring finger by dabbing around the bone. I use Obagi Professional C serum to brighten and stimulate collagen and elastin. The light formula doesn’t make the eye area puffy.
essence info
Epsom Skin Clinics
Websites: www.epsomskinclinics.com
Telephone: 01372 737280 (Epsom) or 020 8399 5996 (Surbiton)